Ship Modelling Tricks. Part 4
In almost all models there are hundreds of small brads and nails that must be driven into the hull and spars. To handle them with your fingers is a difficult feat. A simple tool that will make it easy to hold and hammer even the smallest brad is shown in Fig. 20. It consists of a short length of magnetized hack saw blade mounted between two similar strips of celluloid or fiber. A machine screw and nut hold the three pieces together at one end while a string binding serves the same purpose at the other end. The celluloid or fiber strips should be slightly longer than the hack saw blade to form a shallow groove in which the brad is placed. The piece of magnetized metal will hold it in position. Very often when you decide on a particular model you are disappointed to find that the plans you would like to use are not to the exact scale you desire. You may want a model for a particular place over your mantle and the plans may be for one twice that size. Such a predicament can be easily remedied, however. Plan scales and sizes can be changed quickly and easily to agree.
Suppose, for instance you have plans for a model 31 in. long but desire to build the model
only 20 in. long. Directly under the side elevation of the model, draw a line AB
horizontally and project the ends of the model down to it (see Fig. 21). On the full-size
drawing, this line will then measure 31 in. Next draw line AC at any angle to AB, making
it exactly 20 in. long and marking each inch as shown. Also, divide the first inch
division into sixteenths or eighths. Finally draw the line BC and the nineteen other lines
parallel to it, making each pass through one of the inch divisions on line AC. These
parallel lines then will divide the line AB into twenty equal parts. This will be your new
scale in which each division will be equivalent to 1 in. on the finished model. To make
measuring easier, draw lines through the 1/16 in. divisions parallel to BC. This will give
you 1/16 in. divisions on your new scale.
To measure any part or fitting on the model, set your dividers to the length, height, or
width, place the divider points on the new scale line, and read off the measurement in
inches. By careful drawing and measuring, you can build your model accurately to the scale
you have chosen. In a similar way, other scales to give any desired overall length can be
arranged. Model plans can be enlarged or reduced. In model making, various cements and
other compounds will be of great assistance in simplifying the work. While most of these
substances can be purchased at hardware and model making stores, the amateur can save
money by compounding his own according to well-tried and simple formulas. One of the most
useful compounds the ship modeler can make is what is known as gesso. It is particularly
valuable in building up imitation carvings as already suggested.
Mixing the
Gesso - First formula: Into 11/4 cups of whiting pour 1 gill (6 tablespoons) of the
best obtainable liquid glue, 3 teaspoons of linseed oil, and 3 teaspoons of varnish. Mix
slowly for several minutes. If the mixture appears too thick, thin with water; if too
thin, thicken with whiting. Second formula: Mix 10 tablespoons of whiting with water to a
thick cream and add 6 tablespoons of liquid glue. Then mix in another dish i tablespoon of
clear varnish with 4 tablespoons linseed oil. Stir the latter into the former and boil the
mixture for 10 minutes in a double boiler. Both types of gesso may be applied cold and
will not harden if kept in a closely corked jar.
Applying the Gesso - For a smooth surface, spread with palette or paring knife,
dipping the blade into water and going over the work a second time. For haphazard
patterns, especially desirable on surfaces that are to be polychromed, apply moderately
thick, covering only a small surface at a time, and give a scrolled or lined effect with
the point of the knife, or stipple the surface with a stiff brush. For more formal
decorations, draw the design on the background and apply the gesso with a small brush, or
use confectioner's icing tools or a stiff paper cone.
Finishing the Work -
For a polychrome effect, gild with bronzing powder and banana oil (Roman or green gold,
silver, or other colors) and, when dry, paint with artist's oil colors thinned with
turpentine, rubbing off the surplus colors and blending the surface artistically with a
clean cloth. A protective coat of shellac, flat or gloss varnish, or wax may be added. For
an antique effect, dust the work lightly with rottenstone. The polychrome process also can
be reversed by painting the surface first and then topping off lightly with rather dry
bronzing colors. For colored finishes other than polychrome, use enamel, oil paint, flat
wall paint, poster or water colors. Protect the two last named with transparent shellac.
Gesso also can be colored before application by mixing bronzing powders or dry colors with
the paste. Another substance that will be very useful in the model maker's shop is a
quick-drying cement. To make such a cement collect old toothbrush handles and other scrap
celluloid objects until you have approximately a quarter of a pound. Cut the bulk pieces
into small chips and add about a quart of acetone and several tablespoons of camphor.
Stir the mixture frequently until all the celluloid has dissolved. By adding about a half pint of alcohol to one-half of this mixture you can provide yourself with a second cement that will be of the slow-setting type. By obtaining a quantity of leather dust from a neighborhood shoemaker, you can make a fast-setting plastic putty that will give the appearance of wood when it hardens. Simply add the powdered leather to 1 oz. (weight) of scrap celluloid, 1/32 oz. (fluid) of castor oil, 2 oz. (fluid) of acetone, and 2 oz. (fluid) of alcohol, stirring the mixture until the celluloid shavings dissolve and the leather is well distributed. Enough of the leather dust should be added to give the mixture the consistency of putty. If desired, a dye or oil soluble aniline stain can be added to obtain the desired color. Such a putty will be particularly valuable for hiding cracks, building up decorations, and modeling figureheads.