Decorating A Ship Model. Part 2
Flake white artist's paint can be used inside the bulwarks and for deck nouses and similar parts. This will have a tendency to turn slightly yellow with time, which will be sufficient antiquing. These parts and the masts should be finished as the work of assembling progresses, preferably before being fastened in place. Although lacquer colors can be used in painting a model, most experts prefer ordinary oil paints. There are, however, some occasions when a lacquer will come in handy. Glue will not adhere to oil paint, but the cellulose type of household cements will stick to lacquer because they soften it and reach the wood below. It is therefore more convenient sometimes to lacquer any particular part that will have other parts cemented to it. Boxwood fittings can be given a metal finish through the use of a black brushing lacquer (cellulose enamel) and colored bronzing powders. Paint the part with the lacquer, dust on the bronzing powders, and deaden the colors slightly by daubing them with a brush. Places where rust would ordinarily appear in time on a ship can be imitated on a model by dusting a rust-colored pigment or bronzing powder onto the moist paint or lacquer. Such places as the sides of the hull under the anchor and below the scuppers can be treated in this manner.
The deck ironwork usually was black, but sometimes green. Aloft, the ironwork usually was
the same color as the masts and spars, but sometimes was black on white wood. Mast bands
frequently were painted in this way. The iron on natural colored spars might be either
black or white. Blocks on early ships appear to have been unpainted, but in later vessels
they were painted to harmonize with the spars. Deadeyes should be painted black since they
invariably were given a coat of tar along with the lanyards. Anchors and oldtime guns
always were painted black. Chain also should be black, never gold or silver. The best way
to blacken brass or copper is to dip it in a solution of liver of sulphur (Fig. 4). If
paint is preferred, there is a mat lacquer used for painting the metal work on cameras
that is excellent for model work. This also can be used for touching up the rigging where
necessary.
A beautiful green patina also can be applied to brass and copper work to give the appearance of age by using the following solution: 3/8 oz. crystallized iron chloride, 2 oz. ammonium chloride, 1 oz. verdigris, 1 1/4 oz. sodium chloride, 1/2 oz. potassium bitartrate, and 16 oz. of water. Apply the solution to the clean metal with a soft brush and allow it to dry, Several applications may be necessary. After the patina has been built up to the desired thickness, it may be stippled with a damp brush to get the variegated color that we find on old bronzes. With regard to the gilded parts on a model, a book of gold leaf costs very little and lasts a model maker's lifetime. It can be applied easily and gives an appearance that is hard to obtain with ordinary gilt paint. Japan gold size generally is used to make it adhere, but the model maker can obtain satisfactory results by using thin shellac, varnish, or glue. Apply the adhesive and allow it to get tacky before applying the gold leaf. Cut the leaf to shape with a sharp razor blade and apply it with a dry camel's-hair brush which has been drawn over the coat sleeve or hair several times.
Many of the oldtime ships had a large amount of flat gold decoration. To bronze or gold leaf some of the tiny designs and emblems is a task that takes plenty of patience. A simpler method is to gold-bronze a half dozen sheets of high-grade bond paper and cut out the figures with small scissors and a penknife, gluing them where you wish (Fig. 5). Almost every model will call for flags. There are various ways of making these. One way is to use a regular textile paint, painting all of the flags at one time on a large sheet of silk. Each piece then can be cut out roughly to shape, warped to the proper shape to give the effect of realism, and then sprayed with clear lacquer. As soon as they are stiff enough to handle, they can be trimmed with manicure scissors to the exact size and shape.
Another, and perhaps simpler way, is to draw the flag pattern on heavy paper, pinning the silk over this so that the lines show through (Fig. 6). Artist's water colors can be used by mixing gum or fish glue with the water to prevent them from running. Oil colors also can be used, if most of the oil is extracted from them by placing them on blotting paper and then mixing them with any of the liquids sold for painting fabrics. If such a liquid is not easily obtained, rub a "pounce," such as is used to prepare tracing cloth for inking, into the silk to prevent the color from spreading. Another way is to place the silk over a blotter for the painting process (Fig. 7). The absorbent surface of the blotter will take up the excess color and prevent it from spreading.