Hulls. Part 4
If you are modeling a wooden ship of the type used around the middle of the nineteenth
century, you probably will want to obtain the effect of copper sheathing below the water
line. This can be done in two ways. You can apply actual copper to the hull or imitate it
with copper paint and touches of green to give the effect of verdigris. The actual
sheathing, of course, gives a more realistic appearance. Generally, shim copper about .001
in. thick is used for model sheathing. Cut in strips equal in width to about one-third of
the hull surface on each side, it can be shaped to the curves and fastened in place with
glue. To obtain the effect of nail heads outlining the plates, you can mark the back
surface of each strip with the improvised tool shown in Fig. 13. Simply mount the sprocket
wheel taken from an old watch in a fork of metal supplied with a suitable handle. Then,
before gluing each sheathing strip in place, run the wheel over the copper to form tiny
rectangles. Full size, most sheathing plates are approximately 1 ft. wide and 3 ft. long,
so you can arrange your marks accordingly to agree with the scale of your model.
To obtain the effect of verdigris on the sheathing, rub the copper lightly with a soft cloth soaked in a solution of strong vinegar to which a pinch of salt and a little household ammonia have been added. After allowing it to dry overnight, brush off the superfluous green that has formed and, using steel wool, polish the copper slightly at the bends and high points in the hull. Finally, to preserve the final effect, apply a thin coat of clear lacquer. Although a completely planked model is a difficult undertaking, the amateur can obtain the same effect by applying tiny external "planks" to the exterior of an ordinary carved hull. The small stock that will be required can be secured by dismantling several Japanese wall pockets of the type that can be purchased at almost any variety or notion store. Thin veneer cut into strips also can be used.
The strips are glued and tacked with very small pins to the carved hull (see Fig. 14). Because of the differences in girth at the various points along the side of the hull, it may be necessary to taper the planks slightly where they approach the stem, sternpost, and keel. If the hull bends sharply at any point, it will be easier to force the strips into position if they are first soaked in hot water to make them pliable. The steel plates of modern ships can be imitated in the same way by applying small rectangles of drawing paper to a carved hull. If small pins are used to hold the "plates" in place, they can be spaced in imitation of actual rivets. After the hull has been painted, shallow lines can be cut in the deck with the toothed tool shown in Fig. I of Chapter I to represent the deck planking. On smaller models, the planks can be drawn in with a 4H pencil. The deck then can be given a coat of thin varnish, but do not strive to get it too shiny.
In this general description of the various methods of hull construction, little has been said about the types of woods used. While a great deal depends on what woods you have available for the work, some varieties are better suited than others. For the hull proper, clear, straight-grained white pine free of knots will prove the most satisfactory and easiest to work. For the smaller pieces such as the keel, stem, sternpost, and bulwarks, some harder wood - gumwood is excellent - will be stronger and less likely to give way after it has been fastened in place. When cutting wood for a hull, always save the scraps and extra pieces. They will form excellent stock for making many of the deck parts and fittings later on in your work.