Ship Model Making

A Clipper Ship Model. Part 1

In speed and beauty, few ships can compare with America's nineteenth century clippers. Their flowing curves and trim rigging made them the most beautiful ships sailing the seas. It is little wonder then that they are a popular type of model. As a decoration, they embody everything that is desired - grace, beauty, and life. The clipper ship model to be described, although simplified to make the construction easier, is an excellent miniature of the type of ship that carried American shipping to distant ports in the 1850's. Designed to a scale of 1/12 in. equals 1 ft., the completed model is 26 in. long and 161/2 in. high. The body of the hull (Fig. 1) is constructed of six lifts or layers, each 5/12 in. thick (that being the usual thickness of planed 1/2-in. white pine). To make them, take six pieces of white pine, free from knots, not less than 31/2 by 20 in., and scribe a midship line right around the center of each. Mark one of the outlines A, B, C, D, E, and F on each, and mark at least three of the construction lines on the under side of each lift, say Nos. II, IX, and XII. Cut these pieces to shape with the fret saw, being very careful never to come inside the lines; it is better to leave about 1/32 in. of wood outside them. Sandpaper off all inequalities. The bottom lift (A) is only 4/12 in. thick; the extra should be planned off before cutting. To make the model hollow, lifts B, C, D, and E may have their centers cut out. To do this, mark the top of the piece underneath on the bottom of each and with that side up, saw to keep at least 1/4 in. within the line (see Chapter II).

The pieces project at the ends to form the stem and sternpost; these may be cut off and vertical pieces fitted after the hull is shaped. The placing of the keel comes later. Glue the lifts together most carefully (Fig. 3) so that the midship lines make one straight vertical line, and so that the construction lines coincide exactly. To do this in one operation, start at the bottom, lightly nailing each piece to the next, on the inside. Make sure that no nail heads project. When this is done, put the whole in clamps or under weights and set aside to dry for at least 12 hours (see Chapter I if you have no clamps). Next cut the sheer or curve of the deck line. This starts forward between III and IV (Fig. 1) and continues to the stern. The deck should have a slight camber or downward curve from the center line toward the sides. This is a convenient time to pencil the lines to represent the edges of the deck planks. They are marked about 1/10 in. apart with a very hard, sharp pencil and should run truly fore and aft. Make the pieces G and H (Figs. 1 and 3) for the forecastle and poop. G is 3/4 in. thick at the bow and 1/4 in. at its after end. The top is considerably wider than F, to allow for the flare at the bow. Piece H has a square cut out of it to take the cabin house; it flares out at the stern. Glue these in place.

From thin cardboard cut 13 templates from the vertical profile body plan (Fig. 1). Fix the hull on its side in the vise, being careful not to bruise it with the jaws. Shave away the lower corners of the lifts until you are down to the upper joints of each. While doing this, keep trying on the templates, noting especially that the curves in some places, as at the lower part amidships and upper part aft, are convex and at the ends concave (hollow). A chisel, round-bottom plane, flat gouge, spokeshave, and half-round cabinet rasp are all useful in this work, especially the latter, but not all are necessary. Be very careful with the hollow under the stern and the flare at the bow. You will find a very beautiful and absolutely correct hull will emerge. If the ends have been left on the pieces, be careful with them and have a distinct angle between the end posts and what is supposed to be planking. If you have cut them off, leave the ends flat enough to take the posts - a full 1/8 in. The bulwarks (L, Figs. 1 and 3) come next. Cut rabbets 3/32 in. into the sides of the hull and extending 3/16 in. down from the deck line. Into these fit pieces of white pine 3/32 in. thick and 5/8 in. wide. Glue and lightly nail them to the forecastle, poop, and hull sides. The forward end may need steaming to twist it (see Chapter IX); have them a shade thick and when in position, sandpaper them to meet the rest of the hull.

From a piece of pine 1/8 in. thick, cut a horseshoe- shaped piece (I) to lie on the poop, which will continue the inside line of the bulwark. It had better project considerably on the outside and be shaved down to the hull lines after being glued. Make a similar piece (J) for the forecastle, which, inside and out, will have to continue the flare at the bow. These parts must be neatly joined to the bulwark pieces where they meet. For the keel (K) cut a groove along the bottom of the hull 5/32 in. wide by 1/16 in. deep. Into this glue and nail a strip of pine 5/16 in. deep by the same width. Have it extend beyond the hull sufficiently to come under the stem and sternpost. If these are to be added, they come next; their shape will be seen in the sheer plan (Fig. 1). The two moldings (Fig. 4) come next. They can be made from wood, but cord, such as fishing line, is easier to handle and just as good. The lower one should be about 1/16 in. in diameter. Starting at the bow, it follows the line of the main deck. Stretch and glue it along, helping to keep it in position with a few pin points. The top molding should be about half as thick and level with the edge of the bulwarks. For the hawse pipes, bore a 3/16-in. diameter hole, 1/4 in. deep in each bow, 3/4 in. abaft the stem, and 1/4 in. below the lower molding. Point it toward the middle of the forecastle head. It is a round hole, but the angle at which it is bored gives it an oval entrance. Paint it red inside. Carefully bore a 1/4-in. hole for the bowsprit, and then make the figurehead by building it up from gesso or composition wood (see Chapter IV). It should be white and gold, and the scrollwork design should extend back to the hawse pipes. A handrail (M, Fig. 2) is required around the poop deck. This can be made from a piece of flat rattan cane, a scant 1/16 by 1/8 in.

Measure off sufficient to go around, and, at the middle and 3/4-in. intervals, drive 1/4 in. long points (from bank pins) through it. On these drop two or three beads, fastening them with a spot of glue, to make a rail 1/8 in. high. Invert this and drive the pin points into the edge of the bulwarks. Make and fasten the wooden catheads (N, Fig. 2) - 1/8 in. square and 1 in. long - and the bumpkins (O), which are 3/4 in- long. They should project through the rails. Now draw the plank lines on the pieces H and G, if it has not been done previously, and give the entire deck a coat of thin varnish. Give the hull a priming coat of flat white paint and scratch in the water line (see Chapter II). When this is dry, sandpaper down and fill in any inequalities with white lead or thick paint. Sandpaper again; then give the upper part a coat of black, and the lower a coat of dark green or the color known as "light red," if you prefer (see Chapter VI). Rub this down and apply another coat, finally rubbing down with pumice stone and water to take off any shine.